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Ian X Echo New Puppy List

Items I suggest you have on hand when puppy comes home


Lets start with crates. One of the most important things that you will need for your dog. I suggest having one crate for the car and one for the house. You can get by with just one crate but it may get annoying carrying it back and forth. I use RuffLand Kennels in the car and a combination of RuffLand, Wire, and Basic plastic crates in the house. 


I highly recommend crating your dog in the car for it's entire life. It is way safer than any other option. A lose dog is a potential projectile if you are ever in an accident. The crate is similar to a car seat for a toddler, you wouldn't put your toddler in the car without a carseat, a crate for a dog should be a similar concept. Some other benefits to car crating is you have somewhere to contain the dog mess (hair, dirt, etc), they can't be destructive if crated, they're not a distraction while driving, and you have a safe, out of sight place to leave the dog if you are out and about and can't bring them inside.  


I personally prefer RuffLand Kennels for my own dogs in the car. They are much safer than a wire or basic plastic crate in the car. They're easy to wash out, they don't take up a ton of space, aesthetically pleasing, fit nicely in my car, and do not rattle like wire crates. They are more pricey so that's really up to you if you choose to make that investment. For the car, smaller is better. If you're in an accident it is safer for dogs to have less space to be jostled around on impact. I prefer the Intermediate size for all Aussies. Now for at home the bigger boys (+60lbs) might prefer a Large if they like to sprawl out, but I've found that most Aussies will curl up in their crates anyways. If you're fine with just the plain white colored crate Scheel's is the cheapest I've found them new, or if you live near a Cabela's I've learned that they will price match Scheels if you show them the web price. 


For wire crates, right now they are all using 24" crates. You can buys a puppy crate and then upgrade to an adult size crate when they grow out of it or get the adult size and use the included divider until they grow bigger. I do suggest keeping the crate to only enough room for them to stand up, turn around and lie down. Any bigger and you may run into issues with them going potty in the crate. I suggest getting a 36" crate for their adult crate.​


I really want to emphasize how important this tool is. These puppies do not have the bladder control that my last litter had at this same age. They are not sleeping through the night yet. Setting your puppy up in an x-pen with a litter box overnight or when you are gone from the house for more than 2 hours the first couple weeks will be a game changer. There is no shame in slowly acclimating your puppy to longer periods of time in the crate and eventually phasing out the x-pen for bedtime or when you are gone. You will all be happier and better rested using an x-pen at first. 


I also suggest using an exercise pen for when your puppy is young, even for puppies fully crate trained. This gives them a controlled environment, limited accidents or destructive behaviors while giving them more room to move around than a crate when you aren't directly supervising them. These are also great for traveling/camping/dog shows if your dog might need a space to move about but you don't want to be stuck holding them on leash the whole time. I have found that 36" height is adequate for most dogs. 


I don't use beds in their crates at this age. They tend to pee on them or dig around in them. If I do get puppies a bed I get them a primo pad with the tie downs. It's the only bed that survives in their crates during puppyhood. Instead I use beds to teach place or for them to chew their bones on throughout the house or in their x-pen. These are my 3 go-to bed options for puppies.


​I don't use beds in their crates at this age. They tend to pee on them or dig around in them. Most don't ever use a crate bed do to getting to hot, but usually even if they like beds they can't be trusted with them until about 2 years old. If I do get puppies a bed I get them a primo pad with the tie downs. It's the only bed that survives in their crates during puppyhood. Instead I use beds to teach place or for them to chew their bones on throughout the house or in their x-pen. These are my 3 go-to bed options for puppies.

  • Midwest Crate Bed
    For crate beds I find most puppies either prefer the plastic crate pan as they run hot. Some do like beds though and I prefer these basic beds for in their crate. they are cheap and easy to wash.

  • Primo Pads
    For an easy to clean bed that is durable and keeps your dog cool, Primo Pads are my go-to.

  • Coolaroo Elevated Bed :
    My dogs love these beds. It's one of the few they consistently use. They also love to play on them and are great for place training. I have several in the house and backyard. Easy to clean, I usually just hose them down. 



​I suggest feeding these puppies from elevated bowls until 18 months. This helps strengthen the pasterns (ankles) while they are growing quickly. Their mother had weaker pasterns as a young dog and feeding her elevated helped her pasterns. It also makes them less likely to mess with the bowl. I also use these water buckets in various sizes for in crates at home and in the car. 

  • MidWest Stainless Steel Snap'y Fit Dog Kennel Bowl :
    Great basic bowl. I use stainless steel bowls only as they're easy to clean and sanitize, they don't absorb harmful bacteria like ceramics and plastic can. Once they are older and not needing to eat elevated I usually remove the clip on part and just use the bowl on the floor.

  • Indipets Heavy Duty Pail with 2 Hooks, 1-qt
    I have at least a dozen of these pails. I hang them on x-pens or crates for easy water access. Really great for offering water while traveling. They do work on RuffLand doors too. 


​While they are young I suggest giving puppies a bath once a week or every other week minimum. It is very important to get them used to grooming as much as possible while they are young. This will make your job (or your groomer's job) SOOO much easier as they get older. After 6 months I switch to monthly baths and at about 18 months every 4-8 weeks. Nails should be trimmed or dremeled every 1-2 weeks throughout their whole lives.

Ear Gluing Supplies:

  • Tear Mender Glue
    This is the glue I use. It is a fabric glue that works well. I will teach you how to glue their ears.

  • Uni-Solve Wipes:
    I use these to remove the glue. It also comes in a bottle but I prefer the wipes.


I feed my dogs Nutrisource Grain-Inclusive kibble and supplement with some raw food. I rotate the protein each time I buy a new bag. I do not feed puppy food unless my puppies are struggling to gain weight. Both Nurtisource and FirstMate are All Life Stages food which is very helpful when feeding multiple dogs, no need to spend extra on puppy food.


Nutrisource Dog Food:​


For Growing Puppies:

  • I like to add a high quality Vitamin C (Wholistic Organics Immune Boost) to help with growth and immune support.  

  • Suregrow 100 tablets I recommend for all puppies starting at 8 weeks until they're about 7-9 months old.

I have tried out a ton of supplements for my dogs. My go to, everyday supplements are a simple "multivitamin" powder that includes a probiotic and then fish oil. I suggest beginning these by 4-6 months of age.


I recommend having a small variety of treats on hand before puppy comes home. Most of these they have already tried and enjoyed.


Here is a handful of chews that the puppies like already.​

I do not recommend antlers or smoked/cooked bones as they can splinter and break teeth. Rawhide is another big no from me. Rawhide is not fully digestible and can cause blockages.

I will be sending everyone home with a slip lead, so no need to rush to get one before they go home.

  • Mes Amis :
    I love these collars and leashes. Lots of very pretty colors. They are super soft and I can roll up a full 6 foot leash in my hand. They are less likely to break coat then other collars. I use the .5 width and like the kennel combo, limited-slip collar, and 6 foot leash for my dogs. Locally made in Stanwood, WA.

  • 2M Leashes :
    Durable handmade braided nylon leashes. I have several of these. They last years and are super durable. I love the slip and clip, good for with or without a collar. Handmade in Alaska.

  • CSJ Creations Drag Lines
    I love these biothane long lines. My young dogs use these on hikes or during training sessions. I usually attach them to a harness and let it drag behind them while hiking and learning to be off leash. This gives me a quick backup plan if we are still working on recalls. (Something I usually have to reintroduce during teenhood.). They also are waterproof, rinse off very easily and can be thrown in the wash. I buy the 3/8" width, 10ft long, with a mini standard clip. I also like buying leashes and slip leads from this shop, great for rainy day walks.

Here are the 2 harnesses that I prefer as they do not limit range of motion, they have soft padding, easily washable, and they have a handle.

  • Hurtta Weekend Warrior Dog Harness :
    I do not use a harness for leash training but for hikes or dragging a long line I like these harnesses. They only have a back attachment and don't put pressure on the shoulder, allowing full range of motion. Puppies wear size 18-24", all of my adults wear size 24-32".

  • Rabbitgoo Harness:
    I like this one as a cheaper option to the Hurtta, plus it has more colors available. This one does have a front-clip. Please only use the back clip as the front clip can cause structural issues if used consistently. Puppies wear size small, all of my adults wear size large.


  • Puppy Backpack :
    Great for hiking/walks before puppy is old enough to do the distance on their own. Also great for keeping them off the ground and away from people who might flood the cute puppy with attention.

  • Puppy Stroller :
    I got my first stroller this past year when raising a puppy for a breeder friend. This was an AMAZING tool for socializing the puppy while maintaining disease control and preventing the puppy from being overload by people wanting to pet, touch, get in the puppy's face. Usually I'd just leave the puppy home when I knew I was going into these situations but this allowed the puppy to not miss out on the exposure but they weren't overloaded/overwhelmed. The added benefit was the stroller was a very similar experience to a soft crate. Puppy gets to learn from a very young age to settle in a soft crate even in chaotic environments.​

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